Honeymoon Travels Pvt. Ltd.
Ah, how long have I waited to put this perfect blog title to use. That movie is iconic, watch it if you haven't.
Croatia is for lovers, honeymooners, friends, your B-School buddies and traveling with your family. This country by the Adriatic Sea has something for everyone. And since there are so many blogs out there about Croatia and travel, I will only use this space to talk about our itinerary, experience and general enlightenment.
Why did we settle on Croatia -
a. because neither of us had been there.
b. because it has both beaches and mountains.
c. its not crazy expensive.
d. because it was midway(sort of, not really) between India and the US.
e. because it would fit exactly in the number of days we had giving us plenty of opportunity to relax and to explore new things and
f. because it looks so damn beautiful.
Highlights and Takeaways -
Food is quite average, apart from the abundance of, as Ina Garten would put it, good truffle and good wine and good olive oil and fresh fish, the use of spices is nonexistent. And as I would put it, the lack of immigrants in the country is very evident in the food. The only types of chips available are salted, salt and onion, and paprika.
We felt that we could have spent all 8 days in any of the cities we stayed in, except zagreb, and we were also able to see everything we really wanted to see in the time we spent there.
Every sunset in Croatia is worth stopping for and enjoying it fully.
Route - Zagreb - Istria - Split - Hvar - Dubrovnik.
Mode of transport - Car and Ferry
Day 1, Saturday
We got to Zagreb, checked in to the Esplanade Hotel - one of the only 4/5 star properties in Zagreb. It is a heritage hotel, the breakfast was exceptionally good. They had a great spread of fruits, cheeses, meats, make your own oatmeal and yogurt bowls, baked goods as well as champagne, tea and coffee.
We took a walk from our hotel, but the 'centar' which is kind of like a central square of the city towards the famed street - Ivana Tkalcica, which is definitely a great spot for food, drinks and just a good evening walk about if you don't want to put in too much effort on day 1. We ate at Curry Bowl - srilankan joint (3*) and rocket burger (3.5*). The murals, the architecture and the surrounding streets are super cute and worth exploring.
Day 2, Sunday
We picked up our car from Sixt using rentalcarsdotcom. Driving to pltvice national park from zagreb is only a 2 hours drive. Part of it is interstates, and the second half is through old sleepy towns of croatia. Not enough can be said about Plitvice, it is beyond surreal, it is blue, it is just out of this world unimaginably beautiful and mesmerizing.
About plitvic - book your tickets 2 days before you want to go there - it's a new thing, but they are trying to regulate how many people can visit at a time, we got lucky as we went pre-peak tourist season and were able to get tickets easily. It was pouring on the day we got to zagreb, and the forecast was rain all day for day 2 as well. However it cleared up beautifully and at worst was slightly overcast and some light drizzle for about 5-7 minutes while we were in the park.
The park itself lends beautifully to all travel groups. The different hike routes are split to make them friendly to seasoned hikers, beginners and tourists who only want to see the good stuff and leave. And medium length routes which make you feel accomplished without tiring yourself out. We did the basic route A and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.
After coming back to Zagreb, we checked out the Mirogoj cemetery which is famed for being the most beautiful cemetery in Europe. I would say that's not far from the truth. Since I won't get buried at all when I die, I can't but if my faith allowed it, I would only ever want to get buried there. There must be over 15000 tombstones there, each more grand and beautiful than the next. Fun fact, since the cemetery is owned by the city, people of all faiths can be buried there.
We also checked out the museum of broken relationships after that, which was a little morbid given that we were on our honeymoon, but it is tragically beautiful and should definitely be on the list for anyone visiting Zagreb.
Day 3. Monday
On Monday we began our very first road trip to the land of good truffle, good wine and good olive oil - Istria. The eastern peninsula region of Croatia, is fairly untouched as it doesn't see as many tourists as Split or Dubrovnik. We stayed at the Meneghetti Hotel and Winery in Bale. The last 20 minutes of the drive will definitely make you question if you are going in the right direction, but don't fret and keep going until you reach this incredible property. Our hope for Istria was to relax and unwind and this resort was the perfect place for it.
We spent the first 30 minutes after checking in, just admiring the room and the view from our room. Our suite was outfitted with a very Italian balcony, an incredible selection of tea, and some fruit infused water. It was impeccably clean, had windows and the products in the bathroom were premium quality as well. The hotel itself has 2 outdoor pools, and one indoor pool, a gym, a spa and cute grandma kitchen where they host the breakfast. They also offer wine tasting that can be held separately or with your dinner. The food here was undoubtedly the best on our trip. It was also the most expensive (about $100 to $150 per person).
They have a private beach, which you can access with their shuttle, or even walk there if you like. Like all other beaches in the country, it is also a stony pebble beach. They have a bartender at the beach every day until 7pm.
Pro Tip - If you plan to spend time at the beaches in Croatia, buy a pair of beach shoes early on your trip so you can enjoy the waters without worrying about hurting your feet.
Day 4. Tuesday
After a delicious breakfast at the hotel, we started our drive to Split. We took a little lunch break at a Marche restaurant - which was kind of like a college cafeteria/buffet but you only pay for what you put in your plate. The second stop was in Zadar a little town on the coast of the adriatic sea. The old city is in side a walled fortress which is reminiscent of forts in India, but instead of a fort, it has a smaller city full of houses, galleries, ice cream shops and cathedrals inside it.
We drank some beer and walked by the water, on one side flanked by sun bathers, and on the other side stalls selling local wares, honey, snacks and vintage goods.
Finally we made it to Split around 7pm that day. Split is very obviously a bigger city. It is evident as you enter the city and head towards the harbour. Our Airbnb was located bang in the middle of the walled old city. Although it was 5 floors and no elevator, the location of the bnb and the insides of it was well worth dragging our heavy-ass trans continental bags upstairs. The little apartment even came with its own sauna, a welcome wine, and cookies. The owner of the place also said he would give discounts to anyone who we recommend, so dm me if you want to check out the exact place.
In my research, I was unable to find any hotel in Split that seemed like a good cross of luxury/price tag/location so we went with an airbnb here.
We were a little sick of pasta at this point, so on our first night in split we ate at a asian fusion restaurant called kinoteka. I would highly recommend this place, not just for their food, but also for their drinks which were exceptionally good. The service was just okay, not bad, but not great.
Day 5. Wednesday
With a few days of relaxation in our system, were ready for some adrenaline. We started the day bright and early by heading to some hidden cliffs for cliff jumping. While I just sat and watched and took lots of photos, the husband had his fill by jumping from 8, 12 and 18 ft high cliffs and then also climbing the same height to do it all over again. We booked this through airbnb experiences and it was super close to an actual beach where we later went to for beer and more sun bathing.
We came back to the city that afternoon and explored all the little nooks and crannies of the Diocletian's palace. There is a farmers market just outside it, I got a nice surprise when I found a street vendor selling roasted corn on the cob like you do in the monsoon in India and was thrilled that it was priced similarly as well. Some of the shops are tourist traps and some are genuinely just great little souvenir shops.
Daddy Cool was a fantastic food joint that sells chickpea, shrimp and beef falafel and other Mediterranean fast food. This was the only place in our entire trip that we came to twice, so needless to say it was delicious.
We also had dinner at Bokeria kitchen which is recommended by none other than Anthony Bourdain, so who am I to dismiss that.
Day 6. Thursday
Our plan was to wake up at 5am and take pictures of the usually crowded spots in the Palace and the city. But plans shlans. We slept in a little instead, and packed and headed to the pier for our ferry to Stari Grad to go to Hvar. Most of Hvar is pedestrian only.
Pro Tip - If you plan to take your car to Hvar then use Jadrolinija to Stari Grad. If you don't have a car then Krilo goes directly to hvar and is faster as well. Jadrolinija also goes to Hvar, but it's slower.
We took a cab to our hotel - Little Green Bay. Now when I say there is nothing that will prepare you for the waters in Hvar, I mean nothing. Places like hvar will show you where the names turquoise and aquamarine come from. The little boutique hotel is secluded and only has 15 rooms. Don't plan to see the city if you plan to stay here. Instead pick up one of their stand up paddle boards, or kayaks and enjoy the water and detox your mind instead. I shamelessly requested a pina colada for my welcome drink and the manager was not kidding when she said they are generous with their cocktails. It was exactly what I needed. For the rest of my day there, the bartender served me spicy margaritas which were possibly some of the best I have ever had.
After spending a good part of the afternoon on the water, we went back to our rooms to change before dinner. Our room had minimal furnishings, cotton sheets and little handmade bracelets for both of us. Their ecological approach in the furnishings and textiles was endearing but still crisp and not in a hostel kind of a way. The balcony for our room was almost as big as the room itself with a outdoor shower which was a nice touch. It's not often that you can shower with a view of the sea in front of you.
Day 7. Friday
We took a ferry back from Hvar to Split which gave us some time to see the city center as well. I finally managed to buy some lavender oils and souvenirs here for myself. As well as some gelato before boarding the boat.
We picked up our car from Split after eating again at Daddy Cool and started our drive to Dubronik. This very scenic drive is punctuated by locals selling 'domestic produce' like homemade juices, pickles, figs, fruits and honey. Be sure to carry cash for this, as they will not accept cards there. I lucked out as much as I wanted to buy something, I didn't have any cash on me during the drive.
We stayed at the Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President hotel in Dubrovnik. Even though it was one of the only traditional 5 star that we booked on our trip, it was possibly the worst of the lot. Maybe it paled in comparison to the places we stayed at the days before, but it just didn't seem to live up to our expectations. While the lobby and reception was impressive, the rooms seemed a little grimy, the floors also seemed like they were overdue for renovation, the white fluorescence was not aesthetically pleasing. Even the breakfast seemed very mass produced. It reminded me of an all inclusive resort that cuts on quality because of quantity. I would recommend staying in an airbnb closer to the city or one of the hotels near the Old Town instead. It wasn't all bad though, because we saw the most amazing sunset from our balcony while drinking sparkling wine and it was definitely a moment for the memory books.
We wanted to make the most of our time in Dubrovnik, so we went to the old city at 9pm on Friday night. We were thrilled to see that the city was very much awake and alive. We had drinks at the 360 restaurant in the old city, which has great views and some amazing prix fixe menus. Walking around the old city at night is just a little more magical than during the day. Finally we called it a night by having dinner at a fast food joint called Snogu that caters very efficiently to all types of people of color. Their menu superbly covers a curry sauce, a mexican sauce and some asian sauces among others to mix in with fried rice, noodles or salads. I have to say, this was a great budget/late night spot.
Day 8. Saturday.
Since this was our last day before we got on planes and flew for 22 odd hours, we wanted to take it easy. So after breakfast, we drove in to the city and walked around everywhere in the old city. We saw little cafes, ate ice cream, took pictures and checked out a Dali gallery. In the evening, we went up to Mount Srd to eat at the Panaroma restaurant which was very graciously organized by my best friend. You can also take a cable car up to the restaurant if you like and if its running, but you can just as well drive up there. The view from the restaurant is definitely unparalleled. You can see the whole city, nestled between the sea and the mountains. You can see whatever GoT landmark you like and you can see the most beautiful sunset as well.
Day 9. Pack up, drop off car and check in.
Our trip to Croatia was the longest trip we have taken together as a couple and I can't wait to explore newer countries and nooks of the world with this guy.
PS. I will update this blog with pictures when I get a chance.
Croatia is for lovers, honeymooners, friends, your B-School buddies and traveling with your family. This country by the Adriatic Sea has something for everyone. And since there are so many blogs out there about Croatia and travel, I will only use this space to talk about our itinerary, experience and general enlightenment.
Why did we settle on Croatia -
a. because neither of us had been there.
b. because it has both beaches and mountains.
c. its not crazy expensive.
d. because it was midway(sort of, not really) between India and the US.
e. because it would fit exactly in the number of days we had giving us plenty of opportunity to relax and to explore new things and
f. because it looks so damn beautiful.
Highlights and Takeaways -
Food is quite average, apart from the abundance of, as Ina Garten would put it, good truffle and good wine and good olive oil and fresh fish, the use of spices is nonexistent. And as I would put it, the lack of immigrants in the country is very evident in the food. The only types of chips available are salted, salt and onion, and paprika.
We felt that we could have spent all 8 days in any of the cities we stayed in, except zagreb, and we were also able to see everything we really wanted to see in the time we spent there.
Every sunset in Croatia is worth stopping for and enjoying it fully.
Route - Zagreb - Istria - Split - Hvar - Dubrovnik.
Mode of transport - Car and Ferry
Day 1, Saturday
We got to Zagreb, checked in to the Esplanade Hotel - one of the only 4/5 star properties in Zagreb. It is a heritage hotel, the breakfast was exceptionally good. They had a great spread of fruits, cheeses, meats, make your own oatmeal and yogurt bowls, baked goods as well as champagne, tea and coffee.
We took a walk from our hotel, but the 'centar' which is kind of like a central square of the city towards the famed street - Ivana Tkalcica, which is definitely a great spot for food, drinks and just a good evening walk about if you don't want to put in too much effort on day 1. We ate at Curry Bowl - srilankan joint (3*) and rocket burger (3.5*). The murals, the architecture and the surrounding streets are super cute and worth exploring.
Day 2, Sunday
We picked up our car from Sixt using rentalcarsdotcom. Driving to pltvice national park from zagreb is only a 2 hours drive. Part of it is interstates, and the second half is through old sleepy towns of croatia. Not enough can be said about Plitvice, it is beyond surreal, it is blue, it is just out of this world unimaginably beautiful and mesmerizing.
About plitvic - book your tickets 2 days before you want to go there - it's a new thing, but they are trying to regulate how many people can visit at a time, we got lucky as we went pre-peak tourist season and were able to get tickets easily. It was pouring on the day we got to zagreb, and the forecast was rain all day for day 2 as well. However it cleared up beautifully and at worst was slightly overcast and some light drizzle for about 5-7 minutes while we were in the park.
The park itself lends beautifully to all travel groups. The different hike routes are split to make them friendly to seasoned hikers, beginners and tourists who only want to see the good stuff and leave. And medium length routes which make you feel accomplished without tiring yourself out. We did the basic route A and enjoyed ourselves thoroughly.
After coming back to Zagreb, we checked out the Mirogoj cemetery which is famed for being the most beautiful cemetery in Europe. I would say that's not far from the truth. Since I won't get buried at all when I die, I can't but if my faith allowed it, I would only ever want to get buried there. There must be over 15000 tombstones there, each more grand and beautiful than the next. Fun fact, since the cemetery is owned by the city, people of all faiths can be buried there.
We also checked out the museum of broken relationships after that, which was a little morbid given that we were on our honeymoon, but it is tragically beautiful and should definitely be on the list for anyone visiting Zagreb.
Day 3. Monday
On Monday we began our very first road trip to the land of good truffle, good wine and good olive oil - Istria. The eastern peninsula region of Croatia, is fairly untouched as it doesn't see as many tourists as Split or Dubrovnik. We stayed at the Meneghetti Hotel and Winery in Bale. The last 20 minutes of the drive will definitely make you question if you are going in the right direction, but don't fret and keep going until you reach this incredible property. Our hope for Istria was to relax and unwind and this resort was the perfect place for it.
We spent the first 30 minutes after checking in, just admiring the room and the view from our room. Our suite was outfitted with a very Italian balcony, an incredible selection of tea, and some fruit infused water. It was impeccably clean, had windows and the products in the bathroom were premium quality as well. The hotel itself has 2 outdoor pools, and one indoor pool, a gym, a spa and cute grandma kitchen where they host the breakfast. They also offer wine tasting that can be held separately or with your dinner. The food here was undoubtedly the best on our trip. It was also the most expensive (about $100 to $150 per person).
They have a private beach, which you can access with their shuttle, or even walk there if you like. Like all other beaches in the country, it is also a stony pebble beach. They have a bartender at the beach every day until 7pm.
Pro Tip - If you plan to spend time at the beaches in Croatia, buy a pair of beach shoes early on your trip so you can enjoy the waters without worrying about hurting your feet.
Day 4. Tuesday
After a delicious breakfast at the hotel, we started our drive to Split. We took a little lunch break at a Marche restaurant - which was kind of like a college cafeteria/buffet but you only pay for what you put in your plate. The second stop was in Zadar a little town on the coast of the adriatic sea. The old city is in side a walled fortress which is reminiscent of forts in India, but instead of a fort, it has a smaller city full of houses, galleries, ice cream shops and cathedrals inside it.
We drank some beer and walked by the water, on one side flanked by sun bathers, and on the other side stalls selling local wares, honey, snacks and vintage goods.
Finally we made it to Split around 7pm that day. Split is very obviously a bigger city. It is evident as you enter the city and head towards the harbour. Our Airbnb was located bang in the middle of the walled old city. Although it was 5 floors and no elevator, the location of the bnb and the insides of it was well worth dragging our heavy-ass trans continental bags upstairs. The little apartment even came with its own sauna, a welcome wine, and cookies. The owner of the place also said he would give discounts to anyone who we recommend, so dm me if you want to check out the exact place.
In my research, I was unable to find any hotel in Split that seemed like a good cross of luxury/price tag/location so we went with an airbnb here.
We were a little sick of pasta at this point, so on our first night in split we ate at a asian fusion restaurant called kinoteka. I would highly recommend this place, not just for their food, but also for their drinks which were exceptionally good. The service was just okay, not bad, but not great.
Day 5. Wednesday
With a few days of relaxation in our system, were ready for some adrenaline. We started the day bright and early by heading to some hidden cliffs for cliff jumping. While I just sat and watched and took lots of photos, the husband had his fill by jumping from 8, 12 and 18 ft high cliffs and then also climbing the same height to do it all over again. We booked this through airbnb experiences and it was super close to an actual beach where we later went to for beer and more sun bathing.
We came back to the city that afternoon and explored all the little nooks and crannies of the Diocletian's palace. There is a farmers market just outside it, I got a nice surprise when I found a street vendor selling roasted corn on the cob like you do in the monsoon in India and was thrilled that it was priced similarly as well. Some of the shops are tourist traps and some are genuinely just great little souvenir shops.
Daddy Cool was a fantastic food joint that sells chickpea, shrimp and beef falafel and other Mediterranean fast food. This was the only place in our entire trip that we came to twice, so needless to say it was delicious.
We also had dinner at Bokeria kitchen which is recommended by none other than Anthony Bourdain, so who am I to dismiss that.
Day 6. Thursday
Our plan was to wake up at 5am and take pictures of the usually crowded spots in the Palace and the city. But plans shlans. We slept in a little instead, and packed and headed to the pier for our ferry to Stari Grad to go to Hvar. Most of Hvar is pedestrian only.
Pro Tip - If you plan to take your car to Hvar then use Jadrolinija to Stari Grad. If you don't have a car then Krilo goes directly to hvar and is faster as well. Jadrolinija also goes to Hvar, but it's slower.
We took a cab to our hotel - Little Green Bay. Now when I say there is nothing that will prepare you for the waters in Hvar, I mean nothing. Places like hvar will show you where the names turquoise and aquamarine come from. The little boutique hotel is secluded and only has 15 rooms. Don't plan to see the city if you plan to stay here. Instead pick up one of their stand up paddle boards, or kayaks and enjoy the water and detox your mind instead. I shamelessly requested a pina colada for my welcome drink and the manager was not kidding when she said they are generous with their cocktails. It was exactly what I needed. For the rest of my day there, the bartender served me spicy margaritas which were possibly some of the best I have ever had.
After spending a good part of the afternoon on the water, we went back to our rooms to change before dinner. Our room had minimal furnishings, cotton sheets and little handmade bracelets for both of us. Their ecological approach in the furnishings and textiles was endearing but still crisp and not in a hostel kind of a way. The balcony for our room was almost as big as the room itself with a outdoor shower which was a nice touch. It's not often that you can shower with a view of the sea in front of you.
Day 7. Friday
We took a ferry back from Hvar to Split which gave us some time to see the city center as well. I finally managed to buy some lavender oils and souvenirs here for myself. As well as some gelato before boarding the boat.
We picked up our car from Split after eating again at Daddy Cool and started our drive to Dubronik. This very scenic drive is punctuated by locals selling 'domestic produce' like homemade juices, pickles, figs, fruits and honey. Be sure to carry cash for this, as they will not accept cards there. I lucked out as much as I wanted to buy something, I didn't have any cash on me during the drive.
We stayed at the Valamar Collection Dubrovnik President hotel in Dubrovnik. Even though it was one of the only traditional 5 star that we booked on our trip, it was possibly the worst of the lot. Maybe it paled in comparison to the places we stayed at the days before, but it just didn't seem to live up to our expectations. While the lobby and reception was impressive, the rooms seemed a little grimy, the floors also seemed like they were overdue for renovation, the white fluorescence was not aesthetically pleasing. Even the breakfast seemed very mass produced. It reminded me of an all inclusive resort that cuts on quality because of quantity. I would recommend staying in an airbnb closer to the city or one of the hotels near the Old Town instead. It wasn't all bad though, because we saw the most amazing sunset from our balcony while drinking sparkling wine and it was definitely a moment for the memory books.
We wanted to make the most of our time in Dubrovnik, so we went to the old city at 9pm on Friday night. We were thrilled to see that the city was very much awake and alive. We had drinks at the 360 restaurant in the old city, which has great views and some amazing prix fixe menus. Walking around the old city at night is just a little more magical than during the day. Finally we called it a night by having dinner at a fast food joint called Snogu that caters very efficiently to all types of people of color. Their menu superbly covers a curry sauce, a mexican sauce and some asian sauces among others to mix in with fried rice, noodles or salads. I have to say, this was a great budget/late night spot.
Day 8. Saturday.
Since this was our last day before we got on planes and flew for 22 odd hours, we wanted to take it easy. So after breakfast, we drove in to the city and walked around everywhere in the old city. We saw little cafes, ate ice cream, took pictures and checked out a Dali gallery. In the evening, we went up to Mount Srd to eat at the Panaroma restaurant which was very graciously organized by my best friend. You can also take a cable car up to the restaurant if you like and if its running, but you can just as well drive up there. The view from the restaurant is definitely unparalleled. You can see the whole city, nestled between the sea and the mountains. You can see whatever GoT landmark you like and you can see the most beautiful sunset as well.
Day 9. Pack up, drop off car and check in.
Our trip to Croatia was the longest trip we have taken together as a couple and I can't wait to explore newer countries and nooks of the world with this guy.
PS. I will update this blog with pictures when I get a chance.
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